Crossing the main divide - Harper Pass

In historic times, the Harper Pass was the main pathway to the west coast for maori trading greenstone and later for the miners in the gold rush of 1864-65. It is one of my favourite South Island tramping areas, and this is my 4th crossing through this part of the southern alps.


A wet afternoon spent writing up my notes



Hurunui No 3 hut - built in 1939

I had a couple of days of wet weather as I tramped up past Lake Sumner and on over the Harper Pass. There are plenty of good huts though, so a good chance to rest and relax.

A good opportunity to cook up some more substantial meals - this one is my favourite bacon risotto

Travelling down the Taramakau River on the western side is always a bit tricky after heavy rain, but the weather cleared by the time I crossed over the pass, making the frequent river crossing quite easy. I spent some of my childhood living and playing in this valley, so it always feels a bit like coming home for me. And this is a magic part of the world. You can feel the wilderness all about you, as if you are the only person on the planet.

St Arnaud to Boyle River - with some minor road detours (day 97 to day 102)

 Although we had reasonably good weather through most of Richmond Forest Park, heavy rain in the Nelson Lakes National Park over the last two weeks, had taken out a number of bridges and damaged some of the tracks, but more frustrating for me, it had dumped more snow on the Waiau Pass. Even under normal spring conditions, the Waiau Pass is marginal for solo trampers in November and with the recent cold southerlies, the snow was just not melting fast enough (as an idea how cold it still was - Lake Angelus was still frozen over, not very common for November). So, on the advice of DOC and local experts, I decided to detour down the Rainbow Valley, through Sedgemere, over the Malling Pass and join the Waiau River (and the Te Araroa trail again) just downstream from the Waiau Pass.


Walking through Molesworth Station

 

This proved to be a splendid alternative. It was a bit longer (just over 129 km in six days) but it gave me the opportunity to travel through both the Rainbow Station and Molesworth Stations, and see new parts of the South Island backcountry that I had not seen before. It was also quite refreshing (dare I say) to walk on flats roads again, even if they were only metal roads. There was next to no traffic at all. 



Lake Sledgemere after a clearing storm

I loved the areas around Lake Sedgemere and Lake Tennyson, and the Island Saddle at 1347 m, is the highest public road in New Zealand. It's big country, lots of wide open space and beautful vistas.

Mt Richmond Forest Park - a challenge for all trampers

My son Ryan joined me for this part of the tramp through the Richmond Forest Park.This section of the Te Araroa trail starts at the delightful picnic spot of Pelorous Bridge. The track is well known for its' beautiful tall native forest, mainly red beech, as it runs alongside the crystal clear Pelorous River, so for the first few days it is long but easy walking. The weather was great and although we were carrying heavy packs (10 days food), we made good progress.

However, as we moved further south and up onto the Richmond Ranges proper, the alpine section as they call it, the tramping got harder and the days longer. We often climbed up the 1,000 meters in the morning, only to descend 600 meters in the afternoon.
The weather was kind to us and we needed it to be, as we negotiate the high exposed mountain ridges and the rocky crags, that we often had to work our way around. But the scenery was just bearth-taking, mountains as far as the eye could see. We felt on top of the world and it's days like this that you know why you love tramping so much. Just wish it wasn't all on the same day.

These mountains are hard work. It is certainly "full-on" tramping and you need to have a good sence of adventure, to get the best out of it and enjoy the experience. 

South Island - mountains and rivers lay before me.



My first look at the SI for almost 3 months, as the Cook Strait ferry enters Tory channel. Most of my journey from now on will be in the mountains, so it could be a while before I post on this blog again. But watch this space.







Completed the North Island section of the Te Araroa trail

Wet morning at the Cable Car

Te Araroa sign at Island Bay

On a rainy Wellington afternoon and after 87 days, I have completed the NI section of Te Araroa trail. Great to reach this milestone and the satisfaction that I'm now half way through my 3,000 km journey down the length of New Zealand.

It's full on tramping - as we tackle the Tararua's

 I'd heard a lot about tramping in the Tararua's, some of it good, but some of it scary. But after endless days of road walking, I was looking forward to the challenge of some "real tramping". My daughter Rebecca has joined me on this section, so it's good to have her company and to share the experience.


Early morning start on day one

 

The weather improves on day two





Checking out the next ridge - plenty of choices

 Tramping in the Tararua's is certainly hard work, but the scenery is rewarding. The tracks are steep, both up and down, the huts are a reasonable distance apart, but it is the weather that is your greatest enemy. On fine days it is challenging, yet satisfying, but on cold, wet days, life in the Tararua's is just dan right miserable. We had a mixed bunch, 50/50 wet and fine, so we enjoyed the good days, and longed to be somewhere else on the other days. But the huts were good, especially Nichol's Hut, with it's great little pot-bellied stove. So, all in all, a great tramping experience. I'll be back.

Road walking to Levin.

Walking SH57 just north of Shannon

Some friends join me for my roadside lunch

"Back on the road again", as the song goes, but not far to go now. So with a pack full of new supplies and after plenty of road walking from Whanganui (via Bulls, Feilding and Palmerston North), although I must say, mainly on lovely backcountry roads, I have now reached Levin. While in Palmerston North, I stayed with some alpaca friends, Lars and Heather Olsen, and it was great to sleep in a real bed and live in a real house after weeks of camping. So thanks for break and the chance to feel almost normal again.

I am now waiting in Levin for my daughter, Rebecca, to join me for the tramp through the Tararua Ranges. It's lovely to have family members join me on some of the sections of the Te Araroa trail, it makes it really special and adds to the whole experience. The weather has been a bit dodgy lately, so fingers crossed for the Taraua's.

Wellington here we come!!!!!