New book tells the story - End to End New Zealand

End to End New Zealand - tells the story of my 3,000 km journey from Cape Reinga to Bluff along the Te Araroa trail. Follow my journey as it unfolds chapter by chapter, covering 152 days, as I walk, scamble and climb my way through some of the most amazing countryside available in New Zealand.

This book is printed in SRA5 format, featuring colour photos throughout, 200 pages.
It is available on-line at http://fastandlight.felt.co.nz

 

Bluff and the end of my 3,000 km journey

The final chapter in this long saga was completed on day 152. When at 2.45 pm, on Friday the 3rd Feb 2012, I walked to the end of State Highway 1, at Stirling Point and touched the AA signboard. A great feeling of joy and relief - a job well done Paul. Now you can have a day off or maybe more.

Greenstone to Invercargill - 16 days of solid walking (days 136 to 151)

After another day off in Queenstown (I think I can get used of this day off stuff), I head for the Greenstone Hut and what will be my last big push towards the end of this journey. This section of Te Araroa starts on the popular Greenstone Track, but soon heads south towards Mavora Lakes and the Takitimu Mountains. I found it a mixed bag of good tramping tracks, to rough overgrown river beds and long forest walks. For the most part it was enjoyable, the weather settled (apart from another dumping of snow at Telford campsite) and the huts good. As the days ticked by however, I became more and more focused on just going as fast as I could and chipping off those K's towards my goal. I did enjoy the Longwood's and the beach walk from Riverton to Invercargill.

Wanaka to Queenstown (days 131 to 135)

After having one of my longest day walks, a 12 hour plus day walking in very hot weather, from Pakituhi Hut, down to Lake Hawea, across to Albert Town and through to Wanaka, I was grateful to meet up with Lynda and have a well earned rest day. Somewhat refreshed from this, I set out on the Motatapu Alpine Track with great expectations. I had heard good things about this new track through Mt Soho Station and I wasn't disappointed. It's a great experience, a little steep in parts, but now that I am much fitter, this is not such a problem. The weather took another twist and gave us a good dumping of snow at Highland Hut, on the 15th Jan, so just as well I carry good wet weather tramping gear.

The Southern Lakes and the MacKenzie Basin (days 124 to 130)

There is a bit of road walking through this section (about 100 km of it), but the journey passed Tekapo, Pukaki and Ohau is worth the effort, as they represent some of the most spectacular glacial lakes you'll see anywhere. For me, this 7 or 8 day tramping section was more about completing the challenge and clocking up the K's as I continue to head south.

The Two Thumb Range and wonderful tussock country (days 119 to 123)

After a short break for Christmas with my family, the journey started again on the south side of the Rangitata River, beginning at the well known Mesopotamia Station.. It was New Years day as I scrambled my way up Bush Stream to the Crooked Spur Hut (wonderful names) but in very thick fog. With the use of my GPS I found the hut alright, but finding my way up and over the 1500 m saddle beyond the hut proved to be a bit more difficult, even with the aid of modern high-tech gear. However, the early morning sun on the second day burnt off the low cloud clogging the valleys and progress continued.

This is beautiful country, breathtakingly beautiful. High mountains and tussock valleys, stretching as far as the eye can see. You can't help but admire those who tried to farm it, but at the same time it is now an open trampers paradise, available to all. The sheep and cattle have now gone but the old musters huts stay on as a reminder of those early farmers.

Rakaia River to the Rangitata River (days 114 to 118)

I resumed my journey on the south side of the Rakaia River, having travelled around the safety zone by car. It was raining and I made slow progress up and over the Turton Saddle. So, as it was my 66th birthday, I decided to spend the night in a cute little "A" frame hut at the back end of Glent Hills Station. A large slab of birthday cake and an early night finished the day off nicely.
The next day was always going to be a big one, as I made up some distance and time. Comyns Hut was passed early in the morning but it was slow going up through the south branch of the Ashburton River, because even though it had stopped raining, I had to cross and re-cross the river maybe 30 times. It's hard work and very cold. After 11 hours and late in the day, I made it to Double Hut. This is an old musters hut, built in the 1940's and was a great little hide-away as the rain set in again. I spent two nights here, before completing another long trek on the 4th day through to Potts River and the mighty Rangitata.

Arthur's Pass to Lake Coleridge - almost half way down the South Island

Past the Bealey on SH 73 heading for the Lagoon Saddle

Although it is not quite half way along the South Island section of the Te Araroa trail, reaching Arthur's Pass village was for me a great milestone, as it feels like I have completed a major part of the South Island journey. Also, after about 8 days tramping through the forests and rivers of the main divide, I was glad of a good shower and a comfortable sleep at the YHA. The weather was also on the improvement, and there is nothing like a bit of sun on your back to brighten up the adventure. This section of the trail moves away from the forest covered mountains of the west and into the drier tussock high country of the east. A lovely change of scenery and a great measurement of progress.

On reaching Lake Coleridge village, I had also now reach the Rakaia River and the first of two major safety hazards along this part of the trail. The Rakaia River is a mighty braided river system, very dangerous most of the time and far too dangerous for solo trampers to attempt to cross by myself. So to overcome this hazard, Lynda very kindly offered to bring the 4 wheel drive Nissan up to Lake Coleridge and deliver me around the other side (via the Rakaia gorge bridge), so that I could start the Hakatere track section and continue to move south.

Crossing the main divide - Harper Pass

In historic times, the Harper Pass was the main pathway to the west coast for maori trading greenstone and later for the miners in the gold rush of 1864-65. It is one of my favourite South Island tramping areas, and this is my 4th crossing through this part of the southern alps.


A wet afternoon spent writing up my notes



Hurunui No 3 hut - built in 1939

I had a couple of days of wet weather as I tramped up past Lake Sumner and on over the Harper Pass. There are plenty of good huts though, so a good chance to rest and relax.

A good opportunity to cook up some more substantial meals - this one is my favourite bacon risotto

Travelling down the Taramakau River on the western side is always a bit tricky after heavy rain, but the weather cleared by the time I crossed over the pass, making the frequent river crossing quite easy. I spent some of my childhood living and playing in this valley, so it always feels a bit like coming home for me. And this is a magic part of the world. You can feel the wilderness all about you, as if you are the only person on the planet.

St Arnaud to Boyle River - with some minor road detours (day 97 to day 102)

 Although we had reasonably good weather through most of Richmond Forest Park, heavy rain in the Nelson Lakes National Park over the last two weeks, had taken out a number of bridges and damaged some of the tracks, but more frustrating for me, it had dumped more snow on the Waiau Pass. Even under normal spring conditions, the Waiau Pass is marginal for solo trampers in November and with the recent cold southerlies, the snow was just not melting fast enough (as an idea how cold it still was - Lake Angelus was still frozen over, not very common for November). So, on the advice of DOC and local experts, I decided to detour down the Rainbow Valley, through Sedgemere, over the Malling Pass and join the Waiau River (and the Te Araroa trail again) just downstream from the Waiau Pass.


Walking through Molesworth Station

 

This proved to be a splendid alternative. It was a bit longer (just over 129 km in six days) but it gave me the opportunity to travel through both the Rainbow Station and Molesworth Stations, and see new parts of the South Island backcountry that I had not seen before. It was also quite refreshing (dare I say) to walk on flats roads again, even if they were only metal roads. There was next to no traffic at all. 



Lake Sledgemere after a clearing storm

I loved the areas around Lake Sedgemere and Lake Tennyson, and the Island Saddle at 1347 m, is the highest public road in New Zealand. It's big country, lots of wide open space and beautful vistas.

Mt Richmond Forest Park - a challenge for all trampers

My son Ryan joined me for this part of the tramp through the Richmond Forest Park.This section of the Te Araroa trail starts at the delightful picnic spot of Pelorous Bridge. The track is well known for its' beautiful tall native forest, mainly red beech, as it runs alongside the crystal clear Pelorous River, so for the first few days it is long but easy walking. The weather was great and although we were carrying heavy packs (10 days food), we made good progress.

However, as we moved further south and up onto the Richmond Ranges proper, the alpine section as they call it, the tramping got harder and the days longer. We often climbed up the 1,000 meters in the morning, only to descend 600 meters in the afternoon.
The weather was kind to us and we needed it to be, as we negotiate the high exposed mountain ridges and the rocky crags, that we often had to work our way around. But the scenery was just bearth-taking, mountains as far as the eye could see. We felt on top of the world and it's days like this that you know why you love tramping so much. Just wish it wasn't all on the same day.

These mountains are hard work. It is certainly "full-on" tramping and you need to have a good sence of adventure, to get the best out of it and enjoy the experience. 

South Island - mountains and rivers lay before me.



My first look at the SI for almost 3 months, as the Cook Strait ferry enters Tory channel. Most of my journey from now on will be in the mountains, so it could be a while before I post on this blog again. But watch this space.







Completed the North Island section of the Te Araroa trail

Wet morning at the Cable Car

Te Araroa sign at Island Bay

On a rainy Wellington afternoon and after 87 days, I have completed the NI section of Te Araroa trail. Great to reach this milestone and the satisfaction that I'm now half way through my 3,000 km journey down the length of New Zealand.

It's full on tramping - as we tackle the Tararua's

 I'd heard a lot about tramping in the Tararua's, some of it good, but some of it scary. But after endless days of road walking, I was looking forward to the challenge of some "real tramping". My daughter Rebecca has joined me on this section, so it's good to have her company and to share the experience.


Early morning start on day one

 

The weather improves on day two





Checking out the next ridge - plenty of choices

 Tramping in the Tararua's is certainly hard work, but the scenery is rewarding. The tracks are steep, both up and down, the huts are a reasonable distance apart, but it is the weather that is your greatest enemy. On fine days it is challenging, yet satisfying, but on cold, wet days, life in the Tararua's is just dan right miserable. We had a mixed bunch, 50/50 wet and fine, so we enjoyed the good days, and longed to be somewhere else on the other days. But the huts were good, especially Nichol's Hut, with it's great little pot-bellied stove. So, all in all, a great tramping experience. I'll be back.

Road walking to Levin.

Walking SH57 just north of Shannon

Some friends join me for my roadside lunch

"Back on the road again", as the song goes, but not far to go now. So with a pack full of new supplies and after plenty of road walking from Whanganui (via Bulls, Feilding and Palmerston North), although I must say, mainly on lovely backcountry roads, I have now reached Levin. While in Palmerston North, I stayed with some alpaca friends, Lars and Heather Olsen, and it was great to sleep in a real bed and live in a real house after weeks of camping. So thanks for break and the chance to feel almost normal again.

I am now waiting in Levin for my daughter, Rebecca, to join me for the tramp through the Tararua Ranges. It's lovely to have family members join me on some of the sections of the Te Araroa trail, it makes it really special and adds to the whole experience. The weather has been a bit dodgy lately, so fingers crossed for the Taraua's.

Wellington here we come!!!!!

Whanganui River Journey - Day 60 to Day 66

The journey down the Whanganui river was a great adventure. Lynda has joined me for this 6 day (176 km) canoe trip, from Whakahoro to Whanganui city. We stayed in DOC huts most of the way, John Coull, Tieke Kainga (which is also a Marae), Downes Hut and then tented at other campsites down the river. We had a little bit of rain on the first and last days, but otherwise the weather was great. It was a magic experience, canoing quietly down the river through the gorges and fern covered cliffs. Although, I think the highlight had to be watching the RWC final at the "Bridge to Nowhere Lodge", way out in the middle of the bush, the only house on the river for miles, on sky TV, powered by a generator. The owner came and collected over 29 of us from the John Coull hut, in his jet boat, to avoid the danger of some of us attempting to canoe accross the river, after a few drinks. What a night. Go the AB's.

A canoe trip like this was a welcome break from carrying a backpack, first it is a great relief not carrying the wieght and then there is the added advantage that you can carry so much more food, and fresh food at that. Bacon and eggs for breakfast and steak for dinner. We also took a cask of wine, with cheese and crackers and lots of lovely dips. Lynda's brother Brian and his friend Pat also joined us for the first two days, so it was a bit of a family adventure. We had 4 large barrels strapped into our canoe and they were full. Every night we stopped, we had to lug these barrels up steep and slippery paths to the hut or campsites. Not sure how I'm going to adjust back to dehydrated rations again, as I head down the coast and back on the road again. Now over 1,300 km since I started in August and less than two weeks away from Wellington.

Tongariro National Park - a complete round trip taking me past the 1,000 km mark

The Te Araroa trail includes the Tongariro Crossing, but having saved a bit of time by by-passing the 42 travrese, I decided to make good use of the extra days and really have a good crack at these wonderful volcanic peaks. With a full pack of food or at least enough for 9 days, I set off to complete both the "around the moutain" and "northern circuit" tramping tracks. A combined distance of just over 100 km, starting and finishing at Ohakune. Although it is already late spring (20 Oct), there is still plenty of snow, as the track circles the mountains at about the 1,400 m mark. In fact as the weather was so changable, I got a mixture of sun and snow showers most days. This made for an interesting time as I went over the Tongariro Crossing, the highest (1860 m) and most northerly part of my route. I climbed up from Oturere hut in bright morning sun, although through heavy snow and onto the souuth basin. I got time for just one photo only (the one I posted on Facebook), before low cloud and freezing fog rolled in. Complete "white out" in a matter of only a few minutes. There were other people on the mountain, mainly tourists, many of them scurring to get down to lower levels and almost all travelling in the other direction passed me. I decided to press on, as I felt it was safer following other peoples footprints and heading into the wind, than against it. The main problem however, was the wind got stronger at the top of Red Crater, not only was it throwing me and my pack around, it was also covering up the footprints in the snow, that I was using as my guide to get from one snow pole to the other. Then I ran out of snow poles, some of them were missing, good on you DOC, has anybody checked the snow poles recently. Not a good look I thought, as I stood there staring out into the whilteness. I was just about to get out my GPS and apply a bit of modern technology, when I heard voices coming towards me. It was a local tour guide trying to get his party off the mountain, while at the same time gathering up other lost soles on the way. This party made a clear track for me to follow and in another 20 minutes or so I was down to clearer conditions and best of all, out of the wind. I hear later from DOC staff, that search and rescue had to pull 5 tourists off the TC that day, who had wondered off the track and got lost. The rest of my trip around the moutain was uneventful in comparison.

Old huts and wild pigs

Pureora Forest Park and the land of tall trees

After making my way down the Te Araroa trail, through Te Kuiti and Benneydale, I set about preparing myself for the 3 or 4 days of forest walking trough the Rureora Forest along the Hauhungaroa track. This track follows the Hauhungaroa moutain range along the western side of Lake Taupo. This is beautiful forest, with some of the tallest native trees in the country. I saw NZ's tallest Totara, amongst others. Also, the bird life is fantastic. Lots of Kaka flying about, feeding in the trees high above and at night I heard plenty of kiwi calling in the thick bush. And to my delight, I saw several family groups of the lovely little "Whitehead" or the north island bush canary. This was a really first for me.

Unfortunately, on the 3rd day into my bush trek, I ran into some really bad weather and after heavy rain had effected rivers and streams, I decided to bail out and took a side track which lead me down to the highway alongside Lake Taupo. From the I walked to Turangi and on to Tongariro NP.

Mt Pirongia - high in the clouds on day 43

After a few days rest and a chance to catch up with old friends, at the Alpaca Expo, I have now resumed my journey south from Hamilton. First stop was Mt Pirongia. Climbing the 986 m high Mt Pirongia was a challange, especially with a full pack, after I had loaded up several more kgs of food from the Bin Inn in Hamilton. It took just on 6 hours to reach the summit and then another 30 minutes to progress along the ridge to the DOC hut, perched in the forest overlooking the valley below. And what a beautiful place, thick cloud forest and stunning rock outcrops. I had the hut to myself and the peace and quiet, that comes with such a place. Photos to come once I get to a camera store.